Laser Etched PCB’s

Posted by Ril3y on October 11, 2009

I was wondedring how accurate I could do small PCB components with the laser etching process.  Below is a picture of my results and the procedure I used to create it

I got a board out of the package.  I painted it with auto spray paint primer.   I then had to do some editing of the pdf I got from the reprap.  I had to import the PDF into corel


draw.  Then I converted it to a bitmap 1200 DPI.  I then was able to invert it.  I dropped my little test logo in and it was ready to go.


Reprap Opto Stop 1.2 Laser Cut

I then lazzord the primer covered pcb (single sided copper).  It looked great.  I used the apply the etchant directly on the board and rub off with my hands (rubber gloves) and a sponge.  I did it this way because it uses like 100x less solution.  I was a bit worried about how small the logo was and if it was going to be able to be removed very easy.  But after a few minutes of really scrubbing it was fine.

Once the copper was gone I went back to the computer and changed the lines (lines being the border and screw holes) to hairline which makes them be cut in the epilog driver.  I then re-lazzored the board in cutting mode.  I found that it was hitting the copper line that was the border and the screw holes.  This was not good cause I think it caused the laser beam to split or “move” to the sides of the border.  I think this is why its pretty frayed on the edges.  So it did not cut all the way through this go.

I went back to Corel draw again to think of a way to get it to able to be cut out.  Last try I did was (going from memory) I think the design was 1.647 x .7543 ish?  I selected the whole “image” and shrunk it to 1.627x.7523″.  This moved the laser off of the copper border still there.  This worked and it went all the way through.

My next go (in a few hours) is going to be a bit different.  I have setup the artwork to remove the screw holes and the border so the whole thing gets etched (no border and no screw holes).  After I Lazzor this I will place the artwork back in Corel draw.  Remove everything that is not the borders and screw holes.  Change them to hairline so they can be cut and then it should work without the “fried look”.  I also want to create some very small circles to place inside of the places where wire holes need to be.

The key thing to remember is I need copper to be removed then I can cut all the way through.  So if I can remove a VERY small circle where the wire hole is then I can cut that very small circle (which will look to our eye as just a hole) and no need for the dremel drill press :)

Have a question?  Just ask in the  comments and I will do my best to help you out.

 


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Comments (2)

  • That’s looking great. And good solution to the mask / etch / drill holes process. I’m stoked to see you perfecting this.

    As the holes get smaller and the tolerances tighter, it’s all going to be about the registration of the board in the laser machine. Does it have some kind of clamp in the X-Y plane? Or do you just put the piece in the bed and hope it doesn’t move around?

  • There is no need to hold the board down in the laser cutter. For milling, one would need to hold the material down due to the nature of the head touching and removing material. The laser doesn’t really touch the board or create anywhere near the vibrations or disturbances that milling does. So long story short I do not need to hold the material down at all. That being said I have a vacuum table to hold down very light materials. Why they need to be held down is due to the extractor that is sucking constantly. It creates enough pull to possibly pull the material up or at least mess with positioning.

    Ril3y

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